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How do PCBs (Printed Circuit Board) at home using a laser printer and the toner transfer method

As a fan electronics enthusiastic amateur I've always been fascinated by the fact that it is indeed possible to search almost professional printed circuit board (PCB) home.
My desire to produce my PAC at home rather than use the good old method of prototyping wound becomes even stronger than the years pass and the availability of packets through the hole (for modern devices) is becoming increasingly low.
When thinking of a new design, it has features much more to choose whether SMT is acceptable. It is a powerful incentive to learn to Make Your own PCBs at the SMT home.

The method I will introduce here a rate much success and good results. It is important to follow the rules.
This is really a production process that when done makes you feel really proud of achieving it.
Again, following the rules is essential for success of the process. This may seem intimidating at first, but in reality, the process is very easy to follow.

Major production steps:

1. Prepare a mirror image of your circuit, printed on a toner transfer paper using a laser printer.
2. Cut the sand and clean a piece of copper on the glass epoxy laminate.
3. Cook your artwork in the oven.
4. Etch your board Within a chemical attack.
5. Rinse with water and sand remains.
6. Show all your advice.
7. Solder the components.

Some comments:

Remember to take safety precautions when doing these steps.
It is strongly recommended to use latex gloves when handling the chemical attack.
During the production process, there are many opportunities to cut yourself, ruin your clothes burn your fingers and inhale substances hostile. Use caution.

Well, lets start!

Like all products at the time modern, would start in your PCB design software on your PC. The choice of your favorite software for this task is beyond the scope of this document. The only condition that I want is to be able to print an image of the design in a mirror. The importance of mirroring the design is difficult to explain with words and must be understood from the following pictures on the link below.
The great advantage of a CMS based PCB for production the house is that the SMT devices do not require drilling holes threw the Board. It's just great. However, sometimes you can not escape this. There are some cases that forces you to drill holes. For example, some connectors require drilled holes. Traces that could not be sent copper welded and require transition between two points would also require drilling. Anyway, SMT technology significantly reduces the amount of holes drilled while reducing the size of the board, at the same time.

The reason I SMT discussed advantage was for you to keep in mind in the design of your circuit, you want the minimum amount of exercise and you should try to avoid complex designs in the first place. I try Always brake in a few large plates separated. There are two main reasons for this segmentation edge. Firstly, the smallest circuit easiest layout. Second, smaller circuits can be based general purpose building blocks for larger designs in the future. Think a general purpose operational amplifier board. This advice can only be a device OPAMP with some resistance around him and solder points for the son of external connection. It is an ideal for many projects.
Once your layout design is ready for production, you should be able to print a mirror image of it using a 1:1 scale, on a special glossy paper (Toner Paper transfer would be better), using a laser printer.

Lets brake the preceding sentence into small pieces now.

A final design must resemble a graphical representation of the trace that must reside on the finished board. The image must be mirrored question of how we will use later in the process.
Now, glossy paper is a general term for a more confused as "Some paper used by printers to inkjet printing photos. Just in case you did not know, not all photo papers are born equal. Finding the right paper for this work can be tedious. The first article I could not be detached from the PCB at the end of the process and I had to throw. The next book I found was a success. It peels easily and leaves a clean impression of the trace over the bare copper. I will discuss this issue later in the peeling process. Remember that you can try some photo papers before finding the "one". Do not give up on. Fortunately, there Special toner transfer papers designed exactly for this purpose.

Using a scale of 1:1 means that you must configure your software to print the image of your board with dimensions equal to the actual dimensions of your components and traces.
And finally, laser printing would the case. This is because the toner, which is the substantia nigra (Laser "ink") used for laser printing is actually a polymer which does not penetrate into the paper as ink real. The toner is heated inside the printer and when it melts, it would is the surface of glossy paper. Glued to the surface of paper, toner is just waiting an opportunity to stick (to transfer) to the surface of others if it is hot enough to melt. Are you starting to get it?

Now that we have a printed version of our PCBs in hand, we cut paper to the contours of our board and leave a few millimeters more paper on the edges of the board. The remains of the outer edges of the Committee will later used as a gripping point for peeling the paper.

This is the part where your hands dirty doing some craft work.

A PCB starts as a laminate of a thin layer of copper on a glass epoxy substrate (also called FR4 laminates). Laminates are generally be found on which you want to buy your electronic components. There are two types of laminates for the home user. Single side and back double. Usually 1mm to 2mm thick. Simple means it is unilateral copper on one side of the laminate. Dual means that is copper on both sides of the laminate. This document focuses on only one side of the PCB laminate duplex alone is good enough. Single sided circuits can be made of single or double layered front, either because way unwanted copper is etched away.

Cup size laminated circuit is done in two phases. First, you mark up your circuit in the laminate using a sharp knife and a ruler. More brand the easier it will be. After marking the line, you must align with the straight edge of a table and place a rule above the laminate. By exerting pressure on the film should brake in the marking, leaving one edge of Nice right. Now, the width of the circuit should be marked and cut to same way.

Now that we have the laminate cut to size, we must prepare for the process of toner transfer. Using the best sandpaper (wet paper), copper must be sanded evenly until the copper is clean and shiny leaves microscopic scratches on the surface copper. These tiny scratches are the best gripping points for bonding toner to the copper.

After sanding the copper, it is important washing laminate with soap. Use of kitchen dishes soap would be better. This washing is to remove the remaining fat (fingerprints are too fat). grease residues would be good to prevent sticking toner on copper. Avoid touching the copper after washing, because it must keep the fat free (Fingerprints are bold). Finally, the laminate should be dried with a paper towel.

You remember the printed mirror image on glossy paper? Place it over the dry copper such as copper is up and the toner is facing down towards the copper. The paper should be right over copper. Hold the paper and laminate stable and the use of tape on both edges of the laminate to hold the paper and laminated together. Sure that the circuit is aligned the way you want and

Take a deep breath, because the most interesting step is the following.

Your circuit is now ready for cooking stage. Few people recommend ironing the paper using a hot iron until it adheres to the copper. The problem I found with ironing board, then it is not predictable in terms of successful transfer of toner. A few sometimes it works and sometimes not at all. I think I gained a better technique. Before cooking can begin, you must prepare a kind of pressing device which would maintain the glossy pressed copper. I use two thick aluminum plates with holes in the corners. The bolts are used to secure the plates together so that the circuit is in the middle. The circuit must be cushioned between layers of thick paper. The padding is important to pressure distribution in the laminate and prevent certain areas of the circuit not being transferred correctly. The bolts and nuts must be closed very hard to apply strong pressure on the match and gloss laminated paper.

The press should be inserted into a preheated 150 degrees Celsius oven for a period of about a half hour. Cooking time may vary depending on the weight of the aircraft release you are using. Most Heavy press the more time it happens to get hot enough to transfer heat to the depreciation of paper and the circuit inside. After cooking is completed, it is recommended to turn off the oven, open the door and let it cool until you can safely touch the press device with your hands. It's time to lose the bolts and find your circuit between layers of paper.

If all went well you should see past the glossy paper is glued to copper. Now, find an edge of paper and start gently pulling away from copper. If you had a bit of luck the paper comes off easily, leaving a good impression on copper. If the paper is not a friendly you may have real difficulties Peeling away with it without ruining the traces printed on copper. Sometimes, if the pressure was not applied uniformly in all areas, you would Some toner does not adhere to the copper and the laminate is now useless for the next steps (can be sanded and started from the beginning). If all goes well you should now hold in hand with a laminate your printed circuit on it just like it was a piece of paper that came out of a laser printer.

Just before the recording is started, you can go to drill holes just now with packages and fill the hole of the son if necessary. It is best to drill before etching is started because the surrounding copper gives a better mechanical strength went round the block holes. These blocks can sometimes be torn when crawling after the board is etched. Another good reason is that the engraving after drilling would remove any strands of copper on the edges of the hole.

Now is the time to remove unnecessary copper where there is no trace (no ink). Toner is actually a protective layer that prevents the etching liquid to burn our footsteps. The substance is called etching iron-chloride and can be purchased as little gravel or powder form.

The etching liquid is a mixture of hot water (as the temperature you use to wash your hands on a time cold) and ferric chloride. The ratio of the quantity is not essential. Too little iron-chloride would slow the burning process. Too much will result in a messy mud dark as fluid. I use ratios such as making a cup of coffee. Drizzle with any iron-chloride at the bottom of your container and fill it with water. Container Burning must be made of plastic or glass - no metal.

For the burn process, you must find a way to fall and continued pulling the circuit input and output of fluid. In this way, any remaining copper has been etched is washed from the surface and allow liquid to penetrate the layers deeper copper. I'm using something like a small fishing rod with a line connected to a small hole somewhere on the laminate. A Once the burning has been launched, it may take a few minutes to burn until you see results. Initially, large areas of exposed Copper began to disappear. A few minutes will expose the gaps between the tracks. Finally after about half an hour or more, the board will finished.

When the Council examines the way you want, it should be washed under running water to remove excess fluid burning and stop the burning process. Be careful when you wash the circuit (and container). The spraying of black stain anything in their way.
After the circuit has been washed, it is ready for the final phase. Using the sand paper again (wet paper), the black toner must be removed to expose the copper. Another way to remove the black toner is whether to wash with a few drops of acetone. Once all the copper is exposed the Council is ready for welding.

That's it. You now hold your hand first made PCBs. It's time to go and show all what you have achieved.
Now all you have to do is solder your components and turn on your circuit ...

It is strongly recommended look at the photos on the following link.

How do PCBs (Printed Circuit Board) at home using a printer laser or ink transfer method.

About the Author

Watch the photos accompanied with this article :

How To Make PCB (Printed Circuit Board) at home using a laser printer or the Toner Transfer Method.

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